* You have many options of design, smaller rooms - smaller patterns, centering, fields and borders. VintageCeilings will help you on the phone to determine what is best for your rooms. We make you call us to order, therefore we can make sure the process is understood.
** Make two walls flush, the other two walls will probably have cut patterns, this is the easiest, (most people don’t know or realize the difference)
** Center your pattern & cut equal patterns on the edges, can be slightly more costly, due to cutting into panels.
** Border/filler panels around the perimeter, centering the field design in the middle. This is the true method of installing an old fashioned Vintage Ceiling. It’s not much harder at all. Rule of thumb, border is no more larger than the design.
* Moulding is recommended. Whether you use wood, or VintageCeilings cove moulding, it definitely brings the room together.
* VintageCeilings recommends using ceramic wall tile adhesive-available at all DIY stores & small brad nails. This adhesive has the fastest grab and can be shifted for about 10 minutes before it is set. You will use approximately one gallon of adhesive for every 15 - 2” x 4” panels used.Other tube style adhesives will work , but you might have to immediately nail also. Nailing the panels cinches the seams where needed and also ensures proper attachment over length of time. Use 1” brad nails with heads if using a hammer or 18 gauge brad nails if you have a air brad nailer. Beware of what might lie above this surface., possibly water supply lines you don’t want to pierce into.
* Installing primed panels ensures a complete and even paint job. This is what you always see in old buildings that have inspired you to install a VintageCeiling! Caulking the seams makes for a very finished look and brings it altogether, especially if you are painting it a a light color. Otherwise you can always see the shadow near the seams and cove. VintageCeilings recommends using Dap AlexPlus, Clear painters caulk. Other caulks can be used also of course, just make sure they are paintable!
* For setting the panels in place, VintageCeilings recommends using an installation jig. These are easy to make, ( we have instructions for you), or you can buy one from us (slight assembly required)
* If you have some experience in wallpapering, painting, tiling or other small projects, you can easily install a VintageCeiling in a short time. We have never had a call back to us from a customer telling us it was too difficult. THE GREAT THING ABOUT A VintageCeiling IS THAT IT IS MADE TO LOOK OLD, NOT PERFECT. THEREFORE YOU HAVE SOME ROOM FOR ERROR AND IT WILL LOOK LIKE IT HASE BEEN THERE FOR A LIFETIME! Your ideas of color and design will only give you the feeling of a custom tin ceiling like every one you have always seen . Remember, you have probably never seen an original unpainted tin ceiling anywhere. If you have, it’s a reproduction and treated to withstand rusting, which will eventually still happen.
The point of entry is important, it’s nice to overlap the seams so they are “hidden” from this view,
Therefore it’s easiest to start in the far corner of the room.
Apply adhesive on the panels in appx. 1” dollops, a paint stick works well, as does putting a bigger dollop in the middle and working off of this pile. Use consistency in applying about every 6” -12” on the lowest surface of the panel. Don’t put it right on the edge, as the adhesive will ooze out and you need to clean up the mess.
Placing the panel. Pressing hard where you know you put the adhesive as needed. Stepping back after every panel and making sure you are going in a straight line. You can fudge a little bit to overcome previous slight misplacements.
Where 4 corners meet and you have 4 material thicknesses, you can cut out the lower layer carefully, and have less of a mound of material. Be sure the panels are secure so you don’t pull them down.
Use nails to cinch up the seams and also in the middle of the panels to prevent possible sagging. Appx. 10 -15 nails per panel is recommended. Either by hand or using an 18 gauge air brad nailer. Not a 16 gauge, as it is too big to penetrate properly. Depending on the ceiling surface, around 60 PSI is usually about right. Attaching nails after installing about 4-6 panels helps to secure panels and keeps the pattern straight.
When cutting around a light fixture, if it is flush or beneath the surface, a utility knife works well and you can pare it around the edge, pulling the panel while you cut. Be careful when piercing the hole, making a triangle pie first allows your finger to get in there and work well. If the box protrudes the ceiling, you can measure and cut the panel prior to putting it up.
Caulk the seams if you want to. This provides a much more finished look. Only put a small bead of caulk, appx. 1/8” bead at the seams as needed. Don’t put more caulk than needed, as it gets messy.
Use a damp sponge ( a grout sponge with rounded corners is recommended) to radius in the calk to provide a near seamless edge. This can be an art in itself!
When the caulk is dry , (or ready to paint), paint the ceiling as you paint any other ceiling. A 3/8” nap roller works well as do brushes and sponges in the corners. This is where your creative ideas are used!
When installing cove moulding, it’s important to secure the lower base of the cove to the wall, you cannot expect to use adhesive. Nails will pull it as needed, the top part holds quite well and needs less nails, a nice bead of caulk will secure this to the ceiling. For corners, coping-not mitering, is recommended, butt one end to the wall and cope the other, caulk the gaps! Outside edge corners need to be mitred, this can be done with a scissors on the ground and some slight trimming once it is attached, remember don’t take away too much material first, you can always trim more away. Caulk the gaps!
Cut the backsplash to size, put adhesive on as needed, some surfaces won’t require nails but we recommend using them.
Vintageceilings does not recommend using backsplash behind stoves or other high heat areas. Caulking the seams prior to painting makes for a nice seamless appearance. This panel was primed in a broze base, to give and antique look. We can prime the panels in bronze base also. No extra charge, just ask.
Paint accordingly, rollers, brush, sponge, whatever, Have Fun!
VintageCeilings recommends painting to make the ceiling look as one, or color match the paint to your grid, no need to prime the grid as it is a powder coated painted surface. Using and extension pole with a small roller or pad makes this task quite easy.
VintageCeilings requires a backing panel to be installed. The cheapest ones are fine as they are covered up. Or use your existing ones, that’s probably why you are doing this, to cover them up! Attaching the panel with adhesive keeps the panel from sagging and also provides you the sound and thermal insulation you need.
VintageCeilings pre-cuts the panels for you to 23.5” x 23.5” , therefore all you have do to is put adhesive on the middle and place in the grid and add pressure. Painting the panels on the ground and letting them dry before you install can make this install very easy. We also will cut 47.5” x 23.5”. adding moulding around the edge of a room like this can really hide the appearance of a suspended/grid ceiling.
Paint rollers/ tray
Adhesive ceramic wall tile
Nails 18 ga.
Compressor/ brad nailer, Hammer
Paint brushes/ rollers
Please call us if you have any questions or concerns or tips that you used to make it easier, 612-827-5670